Kazakhstan Archives | Darius Roby

Into the Mountains

Compared to the steppes and deserts to the north, the southern provinces of Kazakhstan are walled off to the south by the towering peaks of the Tian Shan mountains, separating it from neighboring Kyrgyzstan. The majestic range is home to the tallest mountains that I have ever seen, with peaks towering well over 16,000 feet in places, snow-capped even in high summer. It is in these mountains that the elusive and endangered snow leopard, one of the national symbols of Kazakhstan, can be found. Its importance is such that the creature featured prominently on the seal of the city of Almaty. From there, the mountains are easily visible, serving as a directional reference point for city dwellers.

While in Almaty, I sought to explore parts of this area. With my guide, Rabiga, we set off east on a hot July morning along the road towards the mountains. We were not unique in our endeavor, as there were many cars going in the same direction. Prepared for a hike and picnic at Issyk Lake, we were well stocked with beer and other foodstuffs. I inquired if this is the road that leads to China. My experienced guide affirmed in her soft Kazakh accent, explaining that it takes approximately eight hours to reach the Chinese border from Almaty along this road. Unearthing beers from her bag, she told me of her travels to Chundja, the border region to the east where the Uyghur people live, and about their particular dishes and culture. Initially, I felt rather weird at the thought of drinking while in a moving car. Such a concept is unimaginable in America, and I am fairly sure that it is illegal even in Romania, but on a hot summer day in Kazakhstan – why not? За друзей! we both toasted to the clang of glass bottles.

My eyes widened as I beheld the complex of over 80 burial mounds (kurgans) attributed to the Saka, the eastern branch of the Scythian people. There were exhibits displaying the interior structure of the Saka burial mounds, as well as armor (including for horses), weapons, and jewelry.

No visit to Issyk Lake is complete without first stopping at the archaeological museum near the town of Issyk. For fans of Eurasian nomadic cultures, this place is Mekkah. My eyes widened as I beheld the complex of over 80 burial mounds (kurgans) attributed to the Saka, the eastern branch of the Scythian people. There were exhibits displaying the interior structure of the Saka burial mounds, as well as armor (including for horses), weapons, and jewelry.

There were exhibits displaying the interior structure of the Saka burial mounds, as well as armor (including for horses), weapons, and jewelry.

I also beheld a replica of the Golden Warrior (the original is displayed in Astana), another important symbol of Kazakhstan, that was discovered in the region. I stood mesmerized, staring at the golden parade armor of a Saka noble (perhaps even a king!). The hat appeared to be similar to a medieval hennin, with a red base overlaid with golden jewelry. Rabiga, noticing how captivated I was by the exhibits, promised that she would show me a very special kurgan later that day.

A Day Trip at Issyk Lake

Taking our leave of the museum, we passed through the town of Issyk proper, and took a road leading into the wooded mountains. As the road climbed, we were greeted with spectacular views of deep valleys and sharp peaks. Eventually we reached one of the jewels of the northern Tian Shan Mountains – Lake Issyk (also Esik).

It was originally formed millennia ago, a result of landsides damming off the Issyk River, creating a natural lake. The place is popular among families from Almaty who visit for weekend picnics, barbecues, and swims. It is probably best to visit between May and August, as I imagine that the water would be too cold for swimming during other times of the year.

The lake is another one of the geological oddities that make Kazakhstan a special place. It was originally formed millennia ago, a result of landsides damming off the Issyk River, creating a natural lake. The place is popular among families from Almaty who visit for weekend picnics, barbecues, and swims. It is probably best to visit between May and August, as I imagine that the water would be too cold for swimming during other times of the year. Perhaps the waters are sufficiently cold even in July, as I observed a staggering man curing his drunkenness by falling into the chilly water, emerging with a sober smile on his face. The inviting aroma of shashlik (lamb skewers), noodles, and oriental sauces gave away the presences of families, happily chatting among each another in Russian, enjoying a Sunday afternoon away from the chaos of the city. Along the shore, I noticed a blonde Russian girl serenely picking brightly colored flowers – making a crown of them to wear in her hair.

While watching the scenes of serenity unfold, I was approached by a rather drunken man, a Kazakh, who smiled, inquiring as to my name and from where did I arrive. “My name is Darius, and I’m American” I politely responded in Russian. Whether it was because of my American accent or the fact that the name Darius simply does not exist in the cultures of Central Asia, he did not seem to understand and again repeated his question. Bemused, I ultimately blurted out that he could call me Dasha. (Dasha is the diminutive for Darya, a common name in Russia and Central Asia). Everyone laughed, and satisfied with my response – we toasted a beer under the shaded shores of Issyk Lake.

It should be noted that a mudslide originating from the Zharsay River destroyed the lake during the 1960s, killing quite a few people. There is a memorial close to the lake honoring the deceased. The lake would not be restored until the 1990s.

Issyk Kurgan and the Golden Warrior

After hours of merrymaking, picnicking, and drinking, we again set out for our next stop. Again, passing through Issyk and then east past the towns of Koktebe and Turgen, Rabiga asked our driver to stop near a small road leading towards a mountain. Facing us was a large statue of a tall Saka warrior, standing next to the smaller statue of a snow leopard. Before both statues was a small burial mound and a tree that was covered in colored ribbons, offerings to the warrior’s memory.

A similar statue stands in the center of Almaty, the Golden Warrior being an inspiration for Kazakhstan’s independence, and pride in its history.

It appeared that Tengrism, the original religion of the steppe nomads, was alive and well at this place. Rabiga explained that this is where the Golden Warrior was originally found by archaeologists during the 1960s. Mesmerized, I stepped inside the dark and hollow interior, imagining that the warrior had spent nearly two millennia sleeping here. The unknown warrior’s importance to the country should not be underestimated. A similar statue stands in the center of Almaty, the Golden Warrior being an inspiration for Kazakhstan’s independence, and pride in its history.

Almaty region is rich in cultural, geographic, and historical sites and I have only just glazed the surface.

Wiping the sweat off my brow and lying in the grass next to the kurgan, I mused over the day’s travels. This region obviously had a strong historical significance – being the site of so many rich Saka burials alongside Almaty’s role in the ancient Silk Road, connecting Eurasia both East and West. The region is rich in cultural, geographic, and historical sites and I have only just glazed the surface.

This region obviously had a strong historical significance - being the site of so many rich Saka burials alongside Almaty’s role in the ancient Silk Road, connecting Eurasia both East and West.

Perhaps another day I will return to Kazakhstan – to meet old friends, to get to better know its mountains and deserts, and to continue exploring and discovering the history and culture of the region. To that promise, I found a small ribbon in my backpack, and making my way to the tree, I tied it there, feeling the mountain wind blowing in my hair, ready to welcome me back.

In the Kazakh language, the place-name Zhetysu means “seven rivers.” The name is a bit of a misnomer however, as there are only five rivers that still flow through the arid region south of Lake Balkhash, their names being – Ayaguz, Lepsy, Aksy, Karatal, and Ili. In the past, there were two additional rivers, whose names are not known to me, but they have since been lost.

During the time of the Russian empire, the region was called Semirechye, which translates to the same name of “seven rivers.” Historically, this region served as a meeting point between the nomadic cultures of the steppe, and the trading cities that made up the great Silk Road, and interaction between settled and nomadic cultures was intense.

Indeed, it is true that in the ancient past, this land was the home of the Saka, a nomadic eastern Scythian culture that have left behind tumulus burials containing gold artifacts as well as the golden parade armor of a warrior, which has since become the symbol of Kazakhstan.

Indeed, it is said that the Saka culture was centered in Zhetysu itself, and the archaeological record testifies to that. Presently, the region is populated mostly by Kazakhs, Russians, and Uyghurs. The Russian language dominates in the city of Almaty, but one is more likely to hear Kazakh spoken in rural areas. The Kazakhs and Uyghurs are Muslims, while the Russians follow the Orthodox faith.

The Saryesik-Atyrau Desert – from the Saka to the Kazakhs

On a hot July morning, I left Almaty traveling north towards the Dzungarian Alatau mountains with my guide, Rabiga, and our driver, Azamt in order to explore an area of Zhetysu called the Saryesik-Atyrau Desert, a monochrome sandy steppe. The aforesaid mountains, forming a chain stretching southwest towards the Ili river are a wonder themselves.

The verdant mountains of the Dzungarian Alatau are quite rocky, protruding over the landscape with rather sharp ridges. The chain of mountains achieves higher elevations (including some isolated snow-capped peaks) in some areas, while at the border with China lies the Dzungarian Gate, a mountain pass that effectively separates Central Asia from East Asia. It was through this pass that nomadic invaders would sweep across Asia, ultimately reaching Europe. As we traveled the mountains, I watched the sun continue to rise over the eastern regions of the world, beckoning us towards the desert steppe that lies beyond.

The Saryesik-Atyrau Desert is rather peculiar, being full of geological and historical oddities. It stretches over 250 miles from Lake Balkhash in the north to the Ili river in the south, also bordered by the aforementioned mountains to the west. It is sandy for the most part, with bits and pieces of scrub-like vegetation eking out an existence under the merciless and scorching steppe sun. There are random lakes, ponds, and springs that can surprise a weary traveler, but these travelers are far and few in between.

Indeed, Kazakhstan strikes me as being so empty that it is difficult to imagine from where came the multitudes of mounted warriors who once troubled the great civilizations of Rome and China. Indeed, between Basshi, the entrance to the Altyn Emel National Park, and the ranger station near the singing dunes, we did not encounter any other sign of human settlement for another two hours, only endless desert steppe.

A hike over the desert steppe

After a couple of hours of traveling over the endless steppe, I spotted large sand dunes in the distance. We had arrived at the famous Singing Sand Dunes of Altyn Emel. They are large dunes formed thousands of years ago by sand deposits blowing from the nearby Ili River, reaching a height of nearly 500 feet. It is possible to reach the summit by climbing the light-colored sand along a narrow ridge.

The climb gives the impression of being perilous but the sand is so thin and soft that each step easily left me trudging knee deep. In any regard, were one to fall from the dune, one would probably land comfortably in the soft sand below. The dunes are not only famous for being photogenically beautiful, but also for their singing characteristics.

Rabiga told me that should one reach the summit and then run down at a great pace, it would be possible to hear the dunes singing of the exploits of Genghis Khan. However, I found that one simply needs to place his ears low to the ground to hear the sand whispering the tales of this largely unexplored land. The dunes stretch for a few miles, and we continued hiking through the desert, exploring the barren paths and avoiding the sharp vegetation.

We saw tracks and other evidence of animals native to Central Asia, such as lizards, snakes, antelopes, and perhaps even the extremely rare Przewalski’s horse. It is clear that this area is teeming with wildlife during the morning and evening, when the sun’s glare is not so powerful.

Continuing, we eventually climbed a ridge and over it, we saw the desert give way to the silver ribbon of the Ili River, quietly continuing its course from Xinjiang towards Lake Balkhash. There underneath a tree we found respite from the scorching sun, admiring the view below and losing ourselves in conversation about Kazakh culture and the wealth of geographical beauty that the country has been blessed with.

Yurt Hospitality

Making our way back, we again traveled over the monotonous desert steppe until we again reached the green mountains of the Dzungarian Alatau. There, we stopped at a yurt and were greeted by a Kazakh family who demonstrated to me the famous hospitality of Central Asia. They dressed me in Kazakh robes, bade me enter the spacious interior of their yurt and offered me baursaki and kumys, the famous fermented mare’s milk that Herodotos once described the Scythians drinking.

The taste was quite rich, and surprisingly good, being served cold and slightly fermented (having a stronger alcoholic content than kvas, but a bit less than a light beer), I felt quite refreshed after the day’s trip.

My hosts asked me about life in America, and in my bad Russian – I answered their questions, conveyed my gratitude for their hospitality, and remarked about how close I feel towards Kazakhstan, its nature, and culture. Eventually, Rabiga, Azamat, and I bade our hosts farewell and we set off again towards the sun setting west beyond the mountains, the road continuing on.

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Category: Kazakhstan

Issyk Lake and Issyk Kurgan – Kazakhstan

Singing Dunes of Altyn Emel – Kazakhstan

The Saryesik-Atyrau Desert – from the Saka to the Kazakhs

A hike over the desert steppe

Yurt Hospitality